Escape
to the edge with a flexible ticket The
unspoilt islands of the western edge of Scotland lie on the very rim of Europe.
They offer an unbeatable getaway-from-it all destination. Today, flexible ferry
ticketing and great accommodation packages make the escape straightforward. You
know that Scotland has an image of being remote and out of the world? It's just
a plot by the Scots to keep the place uncrowded.
If
you lived in some of the most unspolit and unhurried parts of Britain, would you
want everybody to know? However, the secret is leaking out. In any case, the idea
of remoteness, on this modestly-sized chunk of land, is less to do with distance
and more a state of mind. It's easy to get away to this other world. As
you cross the sea to one of the unspolit islands off the West Coast of Scotland,
you can sit back and savour awe-inspiring panoramas taking in some of Scotland's
most scenic coastlines. To get the most out of an island holiday, Caledonian MacBrayne's
Island Hopscotch¨ tickets are a great way of ensuring you have plenty of time
to see everything marked down in your itinerary. With
one of these extraordinary tickets, you're free to hop from island to island on
a number of different routes - at a discounted price - so you can afford to explore
even more of Scotland's fantastic coastline. And bicycles travel free with these
tickets. Caledonian MacBrayne have planned out 26 of the top routes to choose
from. Basically,
explore the western seaboard by way of a go-as-you-please ticket and you truly
can "Escape to the Edge" . The Western Isles have become a symbol of
escape, of taking yourself off on some kind of journey of discovery. Remember,
you don't have to be inclined to bouts of introspection to visit these islands.
You can just go there to enjoy brilliant beaches, the wildflowers of the shell-sand
coastal pasture, called the machair, in late spring; then there is the wildlife
(otters almost guaranteed), the culture, the seafood and, really, just the sense
of being somewhere completely different.
Besides,
you'll be in good company, as House and Garden magazine has declared both the
Western Isles and the islands of the Inner Hebrides to be in the world's top ten
island destinations, along with the Bahamas and Mauritius. Follow in the wake
of centuries of discerning tourists and enjoy your very own adventure on the high
seas for up to a month with CalMac's ticketing offers.
If it's the full Hebridean Odyssey that you're looking for, then the Barra-Uists-Harris
route is ideal. The journey starts in Oban where a trip on the Castlebay ferry
will take you to the enchanting Isle of Barra - well worth a few days - visit
strolling along the island's white sandy beaches or marching through the machair
grass and hills further inland. Barra,
the ancient stronghold of the Clan MacNeill, who built Kisimul Castle at the entrance
to Castlebay in the 12th century to protect the island from invaders, has many
Gaelic-speakers, as some of the other islands have. Then it's on to the port of
Lochboisdale and the Uists - the most westerly group of islands in Scotland. South
and North Uist, with Benbecula sandwiched in between, are linked by causeways.
Few
trees grow on these islands, lending them a unique and desolate beauty. The land
of Flora MacDonald's birthplace, the Uists are steeped in history, with the ancient
chapel at Howmore, the abandoned keep at Ormacleit and the ruined Borve Castle
on Benbecula. From
the north end of the Uists at Berneray you catch the ferry for the beautiful sail
over the Sound of Harris to Leverburgh. On Harris the island's famous tweed mill
attracts visitors in their droves. Northwards is Lewis, which is almost separated
from Harris by a high range of hills dominated by An Clisham, the highest mountain
in the Hebrides at 2,622ft (811m), and a favourite of hillwalkers. Lewis
is proud of its impressive Standing Stones at Callanish, second only to Stonehenge
in the UK for their grandeur, but older. Worth a visit also is the Iron Age broch
(defensive tower) at nearby Carloway, and the Black House at Arnol. They give
the visitor that feeling of stepping back in time and of escapism. This land has
a dark, central peat moor and entire families can often be seen cutting peat.
The peat is laid out to dry, then taken home for winter fuel.
The
main town in the Hebrides is Stornoway and from here the ferry takes you back
to the mainland at Ullapool. Another favourite route involves sailing from Ardrossan,
on the Ayrshire coast, to Brodick on the Isle of Arran, then continuing with a
westward hop across the Kilbrannan Sound from Lochranza to Claonaig on the Kintyre
peninsula, back on the mainland. Here, one option is to travel northwards to Tarbert,
then sail over to Portavadie on the Cowal peninsula. This opens up visits to Dunoon
and then the ferry across the Clyde to Gourock. Alternatively, there is a short
ferry crossing over the famous Kyles of Bute from Colintraive to Rhubodach, on
the Isle of Bute. The
town of Rothesay has a natural harbour, and an imposing 13th century castle widely
acknowledged to be one of the finest remaining medieval strongholds in Scotland.
The exquisite gardens of Mount Stuart House, the ancestral home of the Marquess
of Bute, is only a short trip away. From Rothesay return to the mainland at Wemyss
Bay. When on Kintyre, more options present themselves. Instead of travelling across
Cowal and/or Bute, you can take the ferry from Kennacraig to the island of Islay.
Islay was the ancient home of the Lord of the Isles, who ruled the Hebrides from
two islets on Loch Finlaggan. You
can explore Islay's past in the Museum of Islay Life at Port Charlotte, and see
Bowmore's unusual round church. A different kind of diversion is available at
the island's distilleries, where the stills exude the peaty aroma that defines
Islay's distinctive malt whiskies. Three Island Whisky Hopscotch tickets are also
available. There is a South Trail, which covers the islands of Arran and Islay,
and the North Trail which takes in the islands of Mull and Skye or if a connoisseur
of the "amber nectar", why not take the Combined Trail. From
Islay you can escape to true wilderness on the neighbouring island of Jura. It
has one road, one hotel, one distillery, lots of red deer and hardly any people.
Again, you'll encounter that special atmosphere of these Hebridean islands - an
intoxicating mix (even without the malt whiskies) that assails the senses. The
green, wiry, damp-loving plant called bog myrtle scents the air (though you may
not notice it at first), yellow flag iris in the foreground tempts you to click
the camera again...it's all very seductive. Talking of scents, one of those kilts
a-waggling Scottish songs boldly suggests, "You've never smelt the tangle
of the isles". This utterly mystifying sentiment to any outsider may be a
reference - prosaically - to the hugely characteristic, salty, sharp smell of
a west coast or Hebridean beach with its drying seaweed (tangle) on the dazzling
white sand.
Beaches
are an essential element of any escape. Bonnie Prince Charlie, thanks to losing
the Battle of Culloden in 1746, was very keen to escape to the edge of Scotland.
According to another song, he made it, "Over the Sea to Skye". Among
the route choices today, you can take the Mallaig to Armadale ferry. Visit
Skye and you escape to contemplate the most craggy and difficult mountains (for
the walker) anywhere in Britain. Take the road to Elgol for a classic view, or
stroll up to the base of the Cuillin Hills from the road-end at Glen Brittle.
Skye also has some outstanding accommodation and restaurants so you can still
feel very civilised. (You can even get a train to Kyle of Lochalsh and then go
exploring by boat.) All
of this represents just some of the permutations available for "Escape to
the Edge" island cruising. Take a look at Mull, with its grand seascapes
and sea eagles, or its tiny neighbour Iona, cradle of Christianity in Scotland.
Discover the green isle of Tiree, once the granary of the west, or enjoy the Small
Isles and the wild nature of Rum. And consider Gigha, close by Kintyre, for a
relaxing hideaway break. The
permutations of routes are endless and, additionally, there are eight or 15 consecutive
day "Rover Tickets" which give you the "freedom of the isles".
Get away from it all and escape to the edge. Escape
to the Edge by Sea www.escapetotheedge.co.uk for plenty of unique and complete
escape package ideas. Caledonian MacBrayne sail to 22 islands off the West Coast
and the Firth of Clyde, most carry vehicles as well as passengers. It offers a
range of flexible and multi-journey tickets. www.calmac.co.uk Tel: 01475 650100
Western Ferries operate ferries across to Dunoon in the Cowal peninsula. www.westernferriesclyde.co.uk
Tel: 01369 70445 Serco Denholm operates ferries between the islands of Islay and
Jura. Tel: 01496 840681
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