Argyll

East to west, this great swathe of Scottish landscape stretches from the shores of the River Forth, quite near Rosyth, right out to the islands of the western seaboard of Scotland Ñ more specifically, to the tip of the green island of Tiree.

North to south this area runs from the edge of Rannoch Moor by Tyndrum on the Oban road all the way to the Mull of Kintyre. It takes in both Highland and Lowland, mainland and island, lochs both land-locked and salt-water. A

round the Trossachs and Loch Lomond, in particular, the area is noted as being one of the very first parts of Scotland where tourism developed. These places on the very edge of the Highlands were first discovered and enjoyed by early travellers around a couple of centuries ago, who had acquired a new taste for the picturesque.

By contrast, the area also includes Lowland features with a very different story to tell. On the south side of the River Forth, Falkirk is a former industrial centre with plenty of shopping choice. The town is noted for Callendar House, a mansion set in parkland. It has connections to Mary, Queen of Scots.

Costumed guides bring to life a working kitchen of the 1820s. Opened in 2002, the Falkirk Wheel is a unique development: the world's only revolving boat lift. An extraordinary visual spectacle, as well as an engineering one, it links two restored canals. The BoÕness and Kinneil Railway nearby, the re-creation of a Scottish branch line worked by steam, adds further to the industrial theme.

Moving a little nearer the Highland edge, the new city of Stirling is still an important route centre. In the more warlike days of old, it was a strategic fortress controlling the ways from Lowland to Highland across the narrow waist of Scotland. The Battle of Bannockburn in 1314, the last conflict of the Scottish Wars of Independence, was fought within sight of the walls of Stirling Castle.

That victory over England's domination was the culmination of a struggle started by the first of Scotland's freedom fighters, Sir William Wallace. His story is told within the grand and lofty National Wallace Monument, a landmark, like the Castle, which rises unmistakably above the plain and which also gives breathtaking views over the Stirling area. Today, Stirling Castle is the high point beyond the Old Town of Stirling with its many picturesque buildings.

Highlights of the Castle architecture include the Great Hall and Chapel Royal. As well as its share of historic places of interest, Stirling is also a busy commercial centre with a good range of shops. Looking east from the CastleÕs high points, the steep face of the Ochil Hills is conspicuous. Discover the textile heritage of the area by way of a visit to the Mill Trail Visitor Centre with its audio visual show and exhibition in Alva, one of the hillfoot mill towns. (Also nearby at Tillicoultry is Sterling Warehouse, reputed to be the largest furniture store in Britain!)

Further east, by Dollar, is Castle Campbell, spectacularly sited above woodlands with more outstanding panoramas across the Forth Valley. In the other direction, the hills of the Trossachs are also distinctive. This peerless area of loch, woodland and hill is approached by the two gateways of Callander and Aberfoyle.

The Rob Roy and Trossachs Visitor Centre in Callander interprets the story of the Trossachs through the eyes of folk hero Rob Roy Macgregor, born in the area. (His grave can be seen at Balquhidder, beyond Strathyre.) The southern route into the Trossachs, via Aberfoyle, also offers visitors the chance of reaching the east bank of Loch Lomond via Stronachlachar, deep in the old territory of the Clan Gregor.

Before reaching Callander from Stirling, it is worth detouring to see Doune Castle, one of Scotland's best preserved mediaeval courtyard castles, whose massive curtain walls still give an impression of immense strength. Loch Lomond, perhaps Scotland's most famous loch, has a new viewpoint, as well as a new role as ScotlandÕs first national park.

The new National Park Gateway centre at Loch Lomond Shores portrays the many facets of ScotlandÕs first National Park. The main building overlooking the loch, Drumkinnon Tower, has been created as a modern castle, with awesome views up the full length of the loch, as well as the chance to see some spectacular film presentations on various loch themes. There is a new shopping mall here as well.

Moving westwards, the old county of Argyll is one of the most distinctive areas of Scotland - scenically a grand combination of long sea-lochs and mossy woodland slopes, all bathed in the mild air of the west and a visual treat at any season. Fjord-like sea lochs indent the coastline deeply, sending long fingers of salt water far into the wild country of the west.

Aside from the countryside, near the head of Loch Fyne, Inveraray is one of the most handsome towns in all of Scotland. The former administrative "capital" of the area, it was planned and built by one of the Dukes of Argyll in the 18th century. An impressive courthouse and prison were built by 1820.

Today, along with a later prison (the New Prison, 1848) and other ancillary work such as the Airing Yards (1843), these buildings are the setting for a unique visitor centre which brings to life prison conditions of the 19th century. As well as tableaux, actors add to the sense of realism. Oban is another important town in Argyll, and the main ferry port for the islands.

Oban Distillery has a visitor centre with an exhibition and audio-visual show telling the story of the town, and there are also distillery tours. Oban in turn leads on to Kintyre and the road journey to Campbeltown is rewarding for the views out to the islands of Islay and Jura.

On the way, north of Lochgilphead, the main road passes by many ancient sites, with standing stones and cairns, while Dunadd is also signposted in this intriguing area. This fortress rock was an important stronghold in Dalriada, the earliest kingdom of the Scots (who had come over from Ireland).

Mull is just one of the island communities served by ferry from Oban. This is a rugged island of spectacular seascapes. In winter the terraced gardens of Torosay Castle remain open and feature a unique collection of Italian statuary, said to be the largest collection of Venetian pieces in Britain. Mull's wildlife includes a chance of seeing the rare sea eagle, but for birdlife in quantify then it has to be the island of Islay, reached by ferry from Kennacraig on Kintyre.

The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds' Loch Gruinart reserve is famous for the large numbers of barnacle and white-fronted geese which winter here. The reserve can be seen easily from the road, letting you birdwatch from a car. In the visitor centre live video pictures give even closer views of the grazing geese.

Islay is also noted for its distilleries and some of the most distinctive single malts, with their unmistakable island "peaty" and (some say) tangy, salty taste, can be enjoyed on distillery tours on the island at distilleries such as Bunnahabain and Bowmore.

For an island flavour within very easy reach of the Scottish mainland, Bute in the Firth of Clyde is an attractive option. The Isle of Bute Discovery Centre by the harbour makes a good starting point. It showcases the many and varied attractions of the island, using a mix of multimedia, games, and graphics. Within the centre, the refurbished and extended 90-seat Discovery Theatre, used for a variety of events, shows the latest film releases nightly in air-conditioned comfort.