Aberdeen

The area known as Aberdeen and Grampian, in Scotland's northeast, runs from the high plateau of the Cairngorm mountains all the way down to Kinnaird Head, the lighthouse-tipped point where the North Sea turns into the Moray Firth.

Aberdeen is less than two hours away by car from Rosyth, by the dual-carriageway A90. Both city and countryside offer one of the most individual personalities in Scotland, with a distinctive culture and heritage. Some say that this corner of Scotland, lying to the north and east of the mountains was bypassed by some of the main events in Scotland's stormy history.

Consequently, marauding armies seldom passed through - so many of its castles survived. The "Castles of Mar" -the many castles built to the west and north of the city of Aberdeen - represent the finest flowering of Scotland's castle-building tradition. And the very best of those lie on the signposted Castle Trail, which leads to atmospheric places such as lonely Corgarff Castle (which ended its career garrisoned to catch whisky smugglers) and Huntly Castle, once the home of the powerful Gordon family who challenged the Scottish Crown in the days of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Between mountain and sea, though the land appears to lie quietly and out of the way, getting on with its own farming and fishing activities, this is hardly secret country. Queen Victoria fell in love with the pine-clad slopes and rushing waters of the valley of the River Dee.

More than a century and a half later Balmoral Castle is still a favourite holiday home of today's royal family. The royal connections can also be explored by following the Victorian Heritage Trail, which explores the Mearns below the edge of the Grampian hills, then comes over the high-level Cairn o' Mount road and drops into Royal Deeside.

The Old Royal Station at Ballater, the restored terminus of the now-vanished Deeside railway, also sheds light on the royal family's affection for the area. Hand in hand with the scenic delights of the river valleys - not just the River Dee, but also the Don and the Spey - Aberdeen and Grampian also features some superb stretches of coastline to explore.

For more than 150 miles (240km), the coastline of this area is one of its real delights - from the coastal heaths and rare plants of the St Cyrus National Nature Reserve, south of Stonehaven, all the way round to the long swathes of conifers binding the sands of the Culbin Forest west of Findhorn.

The largest whitefish landing port in Europe is at Peterhead, while Scotland's only mainland gannet colony is at Troup Head east of Macduff. There are colourful coastal communities such as Cullen in Moray, or its neighbours Portknockie and Findochty, with picture-postcard views of bright-painted houses tucked by little harbours.

Then there are deserted beaches, cliffs and coves and unspoilt coastal heathlands between Lossiemouth and Burghead. All this coastal variety includes Pennan, the intriguing village setting for the internationally successful movie, Local Hero, starring Burt Lancaster. And anywhere between, say, Macduff and Findhorn (and points beyond) you can never tell when the Firth's own colony of bottle-nose dolphins will turn up and put on a show, sometimes spectacularly close inshore.

The area's malt whiskies have an international reputation. The malt whiskies of the valley of the River Spey are drinks of rare subtlety and lightness. Some taste a sweetness, almost a honey flavour - but it is the sort of discussion you should have round a well-stocked gantry at any one of a number of pubs or hotels while travelling in Moray.

Better still, another signposted route, the unique Malt Whisky Trail, takes you round distilleries open for visitors to take a tour and, usually a sample dram. There you can gain an insight into how yeast, peat-smoke, meltwater from the Cairngorms and barley from the sunny coastal plain of Moray combine in a magical way to make one of Scotland's most distinctive products.

It would be misleading to portray this area as wholly rural. Aberdeen, after all, is Scotland's third-largest city. In sunshine, it sparkles with the silver-grey granite of its downtown streets. Its long promenade is a reminder that this was once Scotland's largest traditional seaside resort, though the city's origins lie much further back, partly as a market centre for the countryside round about, and partly as a maritime and old trading port.

The city today is a go-ahead bustling centre, with a good range of shopping malls and plenty of pubs and eating places. The promenade still has its traditional seaside cafes, but a wide choice of other entertainment facilities such as a permanent funfair, cinema complex, nightclub, skating and sports centre all offer leisure choices for Aberdonians and visitors alike under the banner of "Aberdeen's Fun Beach".

Elsewhere in the city, the Maritime Museum tells of the sea-going links, while Aberdeen Art Gallery houses a fine little civic collection (including some notable watercolour work). And no matter the weather, the Duthie Park Winter Gardens are always filled with colour. With a hectare (2 acres) under glass, the plant displays here are amongst the largest in Europe.

The towns of the northeast include Elgin, the largest town in Moray, which also has the largest choice of malt whiskies in the world for sale in a shop called Gordon and MacPhail. Other smaller towns such as Keith, Huntly or Turriff are worth a browse. Coastal towns such as Lossiemouth, Buckie, Macduff, Fraserburgh, Peterhead and Stonehaven still have some commercial fishing (to a greater or lesser degree) and other attractions.

In addition, Macduff has a unique Marine Aquarium with its main tank open to the sky. Banff has Duff House, the principal outstation of the National Galleries of Scotland, while Fraserburgh is home to the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses - all reminders that, even aside from castles and distilleries, there is lots to see in this northeast corner.

Admire the water-carved rocks of the Linn of Dee, west of Braemar, where the young river rushes through the narrows. Take time to explore the pine forests around nearby Mar Lodge, where pathways offer all-day expeditions into the high hills. Look for red deer at the car park at Glen Muick, near Ballater.

Enjoy the wildlife spectacle at the Loch of Strathbeg, north of Peterhead, where thousands of wintering wildfowl can be seen on and around the loch. Sample the freshest of seafood caught locally - and, if you are self-catering, be prepared to be astonished at the low price if you cook it yourself!

See the extraordinary facade of Marischal College in Aberdeen, the second-largest granite building in the world.

Wander along the sea-front street of Crovie, but don't worry about traffic - the village's only street is too narrow for cars! And, on quayside and village street, listen to the local folk speak their own Scots dialect. Choose the north east for its sense of authenticity - a real Scotland for fishing, farming and distilling, of true tastes and flavours and a natural, down-to-earth friendliness.